+ Storm brewing +
+ [inloadfeedVAL={plans for a Legio Tempestus maniple, and some painting colour theory}//] +
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The PCRC are off to Warhammer World! In a few weeks! And I've decided to paint up a new Titanicus maniple!
...which means, after the initial excitement fades, I need to get planning and painting – gulp!
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+ Theoretical: so why a new Maniple? +
Not that I ever need an excuse to paint more giant robots, but this Tempestus project has been bubbling away at the back of my mentat-unit for a while. In building the 40k-scale Scythian [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+], I've felt that my approach to painting might benefit from a little more planning and experimentation, and what better place to try things out than on a mini version of the Titan?
Secondly, it'll help dig into the backlog of poor unpainted God-Engines spoiling for war; and thirdly it'll give me some Traitors to face off against my Metalica Titans [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+] for classic 'red vs blue' games – ideal for anyone who wants to try out the game.
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+ A change is as good as a rest +
With that in mind, I want this maniple to have a notably different approach to the Metalica one. That was a Fortis maniple: heavy Titans that benefit from sticking together. This Tempestus maniple will be led by the models that are ready to paint, and I'll then work outwards from there to give the maniple an identity.
Because I tend to prefer simple, robust and reliable approaches, at the moment I'm considering either an Axiom or Precept maniple. Both have minor benefits to Command Rolls and/or Orders, which is easy to keep track of. Both also include a variety of Titan types for interest.
With a fringe benefit of being easy for new players to understand (in case they're used for teaching games), I hope this maniple will also let me play around with some weapon loadouts based purely on 'rule of cool'. My Metalica Titans were an homage to the 90s studio ones featured in various battle reports, and so the weapon choices were dictated by the originals. Here I can just have fun with stuff that's dubiously effective, but awesome and leaning into the fun of Adeptus Titanicus.
With a Warlord, Warbringer Nemesis, Reaver and Warhound to play around with, this is a great opportunity to try fielding more of the newer weapons that weren't around in the initial release. I've had great fun with the graviton guns on my Metalica Engines, and think it'll be fun to try some newer stuff.
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+ Practical: Painting the Stormlords of Legio Tempestus +
The first on the blocks are a Warhound, Urtica Morifolia, and a Reaver, Faultfinder. These are testbeds for the Legio Tempestus scheme I'll be using on their bigger-scale brother, Scythian (time allowing there'll be a mini-me Scythian included in this group).
These were already primed black with the metals picked out, and I've established the blue with Prussian blue (I'm using Golden fluid acrylics for this basecoat).
'Proper' Prussian blue is a rich, deep inky blue that – unfortunately – doesn't show up very well on screen. It has the pigment code PB27, and has slightly greenish undertones. It's used in oils and watercolours where it's intensity, transparency and richness makes it great for glazing.
In acrylics, however, it's usually use a hue (that is, a combination of other pigments that closely match the inspiration) made from phthalocyanine blue, because the pigment doesn't play well with the binder. That's the case with this Golden acrylics version, which uses: PBk9, PB15:0, and PV23 in combination.
What does this mean? Well, all paints contain impurities – that's why mixing lots of colours together tends to result in mud. If you use paints that start with lots of pigments, there's more going on and it's harder to get clean, vibrant mixes as certain pigments start to overpower others or combine in unexpected ways. That's not normally a problem for everyday painting – particularly if you want a grimy, earthy feel – but I'd quite to to try getting a nice intense blue.
I'd usually add yellow to highlight Prussian blue in oils or watercolours because of its greenish undertone, but because the Golden acrylics version is a hue that contains a violet pigment (PV23), I think adding green will make things murky.
Adding white will make it chalky and lose the transparency. The combination of pigments in the Golden acrylic Prussian blue means it's semi-transparent, rather than transparent... which means that it's not quite so good for glazing. This combination of things gives us a dilemma!
Fortunately, the nature of acrylics means that we can layer things cleanly, and that's the approach I'm experimenting with here. I'll leave the Prussian blue as a vivid underlayer and build up the blue gradually with
Faultfinder here has Citadel's Macragge blue layered over the Prussian blue. Annoyingly, Citadel – like most miniature painting ranges – don't publish their pigment codes, so we're forced to rely on our eye. I think that Macragge blue is based on cobalt blue, which is a neutral (neither red-leaning and warm nor yellow-leaning and cool) blue. That means I can add pretty much any lighter-toned colour to tint it without muddying things. White is the safest option, but that will reduce its saturation, making it more of a pastel.
You can see in the pict-capture below the effect of one layer of thinned Macragge blue on the top part of the the rear panel (top left of the picture), and the untouched underlying Prussian blue on the lower part. It's a bit blotchy at the moment, so it'll need another layer or two of highlighting to get a smooth finish.
Once that's done, the plan is to go back over the whole area with glazes of Prussian blue to enrich the colour, knock back the chalkiness and bind the area together.
I can then varnish the area and apply any transfers, before re-varnishing and applying oils for weathering.
+ Gaming +
Sharing the picture of a Warhound with a turbolaser and inferno gun raised some eyebrows from Omricon, but as these are magnetised, I'll be able to play around. At the moment I'm thinking pairing shield-stripping Swarmer Missiles with a Graviton Destructor would make Urtica Morifolia a versatile hunter.
Both have a high long range (38in and 40in), meaning the Warhound can hang back to support the other Titans or dart in opportunistically. At closer range, the Swarmer has a negative modifier, but if it's getting that close the plan will be to push forward under the targets' shields and use the graviton to make things awkward. Crucially, neither weapon is draining, meaning the notoriously short Warhound reactor track can used for movement and shields.
I will probably pair Urtica with Faultfinder on the field, as the two Volcano cannon build is probably going to struggle to defend itself!
