+ Scythian Uprising +
+ Update on building the big Reaver – things are ticking along, and I thought I'd share some notes. +
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+ Building the Scythian +
For anyone fluent (or at least conversant) in the technolinguis dialect of printing, my (very kind and indulgent friend) tells me that this was printed in PLA with a 0.2mm nozzle. having handled 3D prints before, I was expecting quite a lot of cleaning up to remove layer lines, but I was pleasantly surprised with how clean it was. There is a surface texture, but it's more like the slight drag you get from running your fingers over the paper in a book, rather than definite steps and coarseness.
I worked over the surfaces with DSPIAE sanding sponges – some very useful little tools I picked up on the recommendation of Stuntwedge – and did a little sharpening and cleaning with a craft knife, but in all honesty it required very little clean up. Even the sanding was mainly for my own peace of mind, and because I'm intending to use oils – I didn't want to have channels for them to flow down.
As shown above, even before cleaning the parts slotted together very neatly on the torso, and it's got a full interior.
After clean up I broke it up and gave it a once-over with grey primer. I've mentioned before that I do this sometimes to help pick out details. I'd like to do a nice job on this kind gift, so I want to give it my best shot.
... quick shot after priming. Grey makes details easier to see, by providing a little tone to the white PLA.
And the reason I've primed it is visible here – can you see those layer lines on the curves on the left-hand side of the picture? These need cleaning up, and there are few areas that would be improved with another light sanding to improve the finish.
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+ Building the base +
It's unlikely to see too much gametime, so priority for the base is stability and display. It amused me to have a scaled-up version of the oval Titanicus bases, so I ordered an oval plaque from an MDF supplier. It measures 29 x 42cm (A3 size, with the corners cut off, essentially).
A layer of polyfilla formed the base texture, over which I placed some layers of 5mm thick foamboard and larger rocks to build up some relief. Very large ones are a great opportunity for adding some height, and you don't have to go completely over the top – just enough to break up the sense of artificial flatness and add some natural scale.
Once dry I added my usual mix of Golden Acrylic texture paste, small rocks and sand to texture, bond and seal the surface. I added a little soil to the mix for variety – just some compost that I baked in the oven at 100 degrees for twenty minutes to kill off any bio-forms and render it inert. A layer of PVA over the top will later seal it all in and help prevent degradation.
I didn't plan the base specifically for the pose – in some ways I wanted to have the model adapt to what's there, as I thought that would be a nice way to add some authenticity. More on the posing and building in a future inload – so for now, I'll leave you with where it currently stands:
