+ inload: Painting Word Bearers part II +

+ Painting the Blasted Cedar (cont.) +

+ This is the second part of a tutorial on painting Word Bearers. The first part is in an earlier inload [+noospheric inloadlink embedded+] +

_v: Dilute Liche Purple heavily using flow enhancer, then paint it on like a wash, working it into the recesses. While it remains wet, clean and dry your brush and lift it off raised areas, leaving it visible in the recesses and shaded areas.

_vi: Mix Vallejo Scarlet and Vallejo White to make a pink mix, and highlights the edges of the plates that are facing the light source (i.e. upwards). 

_vii: Work Ogryn Flesh into the recesses only, wiping away any excess from flat plates.

_viii: Make a dark mix of Boltgun metal with a little sepia ink and silver ink added. Use this to pick out any metallic areas such as the shoudler trim, backpack and boltgun details.

_ix: Glaze the red armour evenly using Bloodletter glaze. Lay it on thinly; you don't want it to pool.

_x: Once dry, repeat two or three times – this will gradually strengthen the hue without obscuring your highlights, so the more layers you do, the better. (Note how the pinkness of the highlights in step _vi are enriched and become red.)

_xi: Reinstate the finest highlights with a lighter mix (i.e. more white) of Vallejo Scarlet and Vallejo White). These will look pink again, but don't panic – another layer or two of Bloodletter glaze will bring them back to a brooding, rich red.

_xii: Alternatively, you can use red ink, which will give a slightly glossy finish, to knock the pinkness back. I used Winsor & Newton Vermilion ink.


Rory (Stepping Between Games) said...

Sweet jeebus. Do you do this sort of thing for normal troppers?

Rory (Stepping Between Games) said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
apologist said...

Heh, yeah. I try to treat all the models I paint as equally important, rather than singling out 'high-ranking' ones for special treatment. :)