Thursday, February 6

+ inload: Oil dot filters +

+ Toll the Great Bell Twice! +

With push of button, fire the engine and spark turbine into life. +

+ Metalica walks. The sacred unguents have been applied and the necessary sacrifices offered up to the Machine Spirits of five Engines. Bar a few relatively quick details, the painting is all done, and it's time to start preparing for tabletop battle... +

 +++

+ [Insert heavy metal song pun here +]

+ Precision strike: cutting it close +

Two days to go, and as you can see above, the oils are on and drying. The nice thing about oils is their long working time. There's no rush, and no stress (well, no additional stress about timings!), so you can gently tick through the session, and find them perfectly workable at the end. I used a couple of techniques here: oil dot filters, and washes. 

The washes are done almost exactly as with acrylics: thin the paint down and apply with a brush. The main difference is that I suggest you use rather less oil paint than you would acrylic paint as they'll take much longer to dry. Oil dot filters, however, are a new technique to the blog, so here's the rundown:

+ Oil dot filters +

The purpose of this technique is to add interest and subtle variance to a flat area, creating a sense of scale and texture. The result is a little like a glaze, in that you are aiming to work over the area evenly (rather than to avoid/fill recesses, for example). It differs from a glaze in that you're not aiming for a flat colour, but rather a variegated result.

I started by squeezing out pea-sized amounts of burnt sienna, raw sienna, Winsor lemon, cadmium red, and lamp black oils onto a palette, then used an old split brush to stipple lots of small dots of the various colours over each Titan in turn. The paint was used neat, and the brush was dry. Rather than rinse it between colours, I simply wiped the excess away to keep the brush dry.

Once that was done, I swapped to a goat hair fan brush [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+], as these are relatively cheap and sturdy. I loaded this with thinner (I used Sansodor [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]).

I then slowly and steadily drew the fan brush directly downwards over each panel in turn. This draws the oil paint downwards from each dot, softening and creating gentle streaks. At the bottom of the area, lift the brush away, wipe it on a cloth, and repeat until the effect is as you want it. The more brushstrokes you use, the more oils will be drawn away. The key is to work steadily and evenly, and always in one direction.

+ The finished result – compare this with the pre-oils version below. +

+ Strike to enlarge. +

+ Oil filter keynotes +

  • Ventilate  Throw open a window. Odourless or not, solvents in the respiro-sacs aren't very good for you. 
  • Cede control  When stippling, don't worry about an even effect or coverage. Slight variation across the surface looks more natural and pleasing. Likewise, having some dots containing more paint than others will give variety of tones in the streaks.
  • Adapt  Remember that the Titan is not locked in the pose you've chosen, so look at the panel and decide on the direction before working straight down to the base. Rainfall and similar weathering will carry dirt and grease straight down whever possible, so consider where 'down' is likely to be for the majority of the time.
  • Vary  You can also do oil filters in circles or more random directions to add interest to flat areas.

+++

+ The Maniple +

Here're a few hard-earned shots of the maniple as it currently stands:

+ Old Three Skulls +



+ Ferratus Tertius +



+ Fors Clavigera +



+ Praeterita Carnivorus +



+++

+ What next? +

I also worked a bit more on the nameplates from Obsidian Forge last night, too. Thinking more on it, I could have used oils... but given the time pressure, I decided to stick with my comfort zone of acrylics. These have been worked up with a combination of washes and drybrushing. I'd like to polish them up a little further, but as they're functional already, that'll depend on how the rest of the 'stretch goals' go.


 And to close, as I have the shots and haven't shared them, here's a close-up of the eye lenses on Steel Hammer (pre-oils in this shot)...


... and one of the back of the Titans, to show off how lovely and clean they were before I got stuck in with griming them up!




Tuesday, February 4

+ inload: Titanic metals +

+ Sound the warhorns +

+ As you'll see, things have progressed. I've completed the trim and metals on three of the Titans (and discovered Runelord Brass, a pot of which has lurked at the back of my painting drawer for years, is an amazing colour for adding some subtle variation here.

I'd hoped to have things set for the oils to go down tonight, but with two still outstanding, I'll finish the other two before doing them all in a batch on Wednesday. That will – Machine God's mercy-be-granted – have them finished and dry ready for the weekend.

That will leave me a day's grace to polish up the 'stretch goals' of the various objectives and banners. +

+++

+ Mea Culpa – the perils of storing things in too many different places +

I had a bit of a [+CASCADE-MEMFAIL+] moment when I thought that I had ordered the wrong terminal nameplates from Obsidian Forge [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]Champion that he is, Fraser at Obsidian Forge  read the post and immediately offered to print up a quick plate in time for me to get painted up for the weekend – what a result!

As it happened, however, when he looked back through things to ensure he was getting the name correct, he found the plate alongside the others in the digital file for my initial order... and after a bit of digging around I discovered that I had ordered it, he had supplied it – and I'd simply started painting the wrong one [+SCRAPSHUNTERRORABORT+].

So, a happy ever after to that tale, and I thought it the least I could do to share my sheepishness here and encourage you to pick up some plates (or other cool stuff) from Fraser at Obsidian Forge!

+++

+ Enough of plans, what got done? +


After painting the last outstanding weapon (Fors Clavigera's Barrage Missile Launcher) in the same way as the rest of the weapons, I turned to painting the trim, using a combination of Citadel, Vallejo and Army Painter metallics. These were added as light layers on top of the existing dark metal established right back at the start of the painting process – thus if any bits were missed, darker metal will be revealed, rather than anything bright and eye-catching.

This has given the Titans a bit more 'pop' for the moment, and the plan is to use oils to integrate the very bright areas (trim, transfers etc.) while enriching things overall.

+++


The trim on Old Three Skulls goes a long way to bringing out some much-needed contrast and visual interest to the Titan, which was otherwise looking rather red and monolithic. In particular, the gold around the head and forward shoulders (unique to this Titan) helps to tie him in with the others, addinga bit of punch that the white gives the remainder of the Maniple.

You'll also spot on these Titans that the Moderati banners have been added, too. These are made from metal foil taken from the capsule of a wine bottle – simply cut out the shape you want with scissors and wrap it around a length of paperclip. 

+++




Rounding off the trio from last night is Ferratus Tertius – or Castigator Lacrimarus. You'll spot the Titan banner (between the legs) has had the transfers applied to evoke the original. All looks a bit flat at the moment, but some highlighting and weathering will bring some interest to these bits.

+++

Monday, February 3

+ inload: Last push for Beachhead +

 + Void translation – the Metalica Home Stretch +


+ Crunch time. The event, Beachhead 2025 [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+], is in five days' time, so it's time for finishing touches. I'm confident that I'll have a playable force – the pict-capture above is not quite up to date, so there's been more progress since it was taken. Nevertheless, there's still quite a lot that I'd like to have done before they march once more in anger. +

+++

+ Holding your nerve +

Still to do:
  • Trim and metals on Steel HammerFors Clavigera, Praeterita Carnivorus and Old Three Skulls
    • This is the big one. I'd hoped to have all this done over the weekend. I need to get this done tonight, really, if I hope to get the oils on with half a chance of drying before the event.
  • Oils on all.
    • While this seems much larger, I think (hope?) this should be surprisingly quick.
  • Eyes on Steel Hammer, Fors Clavigera and Old Three Skulls
  • Moderati banners on all five, plus the big Legion banner on Old Three Skulls
  • Nameplates on Steel HammerFors Clavigera, Ferratus Tertius and Old Three Skulls
  • Paint three objective markers for primary missions: Secure and Hold and Salt the Earth; three objective markers for primary missions: Asset Protection and Defend and Extract; Titan Honour Banner for primary mission: Honour thy Forebears; Two markers for secondary mission: Deny Them.
  • Paint two markers for Titan Hunter infantry stratagem.
Between you and me, I'm not entirely confident that I'll be able to polish off all the bells and whistles that I want to get done in time, but we'll see. The good news is that one of the big stages, varnishing, is complete – and that's critical, because it's very dependent on the right conditions.


Post-varnish (I used Winsor & Netwon matt spray varnish [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]), the transfers now look much more integrated into the painting scheme, with the shiny carrier hidden.  Just compare the picture above with the one from this earlier inload [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+], and you can see how the legion symbol now matches the reflectivity (or lack thereof) of the rest of the paint.

+++

+ Steel Legion basing +

The teeny-weeny Steel Legionaries on the bases of Steel Hammer and Fors Clavigera have been painted up, too. This is a simplified version of my Steel Legion 7th Army force scheme, which is detailed in this inload [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+]. 

+ Eeeee! Adorable mini Legion +

Why focus on this tiny detail when there's still major stuff like trim to do? Well, as the old adage goes, the things that matter most are faces and bases. Painting these was also a handy way to get an idea of how long it'll take me to do my 'stretch goals' of the objective markers and Titan hunter infantry stratagem bases/markers. Happily, they were all done in half an hour or so, and the other bits will start a little further along than these because these needed a new basecoat after getting hammered with the drybrushing on the Titan's bases.

+++

+ Battle Builder nameplates +


A good example of adding a bit of punch and interest to the bases are the nameplates, which come from Battle Builder [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]. This example was painted gold, the panel painted black, and then the name picked up with Citadel Averland Sunset, which was highlighted up at the top and bottom to Vallejo Mummy Robes. 

It proved a fairly quick process, which sometimes proves the advantage of some time pressure. I'd been umming and ahhing over how to approach them for ages, as I wanted them both to be easily readable from tabletop distance, but not pull too much impact from the Titan itself. In the end, I really just needed to trust the process and get on with it.

+ Beautiful Obsidian Forge nameplates – but I ordered the wrong name! +

There was one fly in the ointment, however: realising that the nameplates on one of the Titans, Ferratus Tertius, doesn't match the terminal plate, which reads Castigator Lacrimarus. I'd clearly had a bit of a [SCRAPSHUNTERRORABORT] and ordered the name of the Titan that didn't make it into the final list. I will have to have a think while I'm painting, as it's too late to order another...
+++

Thursday, January 30

+ inload: Varnish, transfers and acrylic paint +

+ Heraldry and battered metal boilerplates +


+ The casting of propitious runes and god-engineering stumbles onwards as the time creeps closer to the Beachhead deadline. Today's inload looks at transfers on Titans, including bimblings on varnish. +

+++

+ Titan Maniple +


They're getting there. Slowly but surely, every day brings completion that little bit closer. I just hope it's in time! One weekend and sixish evenings to go, and still plenty to do to get them as I want.

With that said, they're at least playable at this point, so let's push panic to one side and enjoy the last steps. This inload [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+] has struck-through text to indicate which steps I've completed since then, and as you'll see it's mainly the banners left to go – though those will be finishing touches done after the oils washes are in place.


+ Transfers in place on the shoulder, ready to be softened in and integrated. +

+++

+ Adding transfers: theoretical +

I've used transfers here and there on different models and units, but generally prefer to freehand markings, as I enjoy the focus it brings me. For this project, however, I wanted to shake things up and try something new – and combining transfers and oils is something that I've rarely if ever done.

Having decided I was going to do it, I then needed to choose whether to use the iconographic or hyper-realist designs from the Metalica transfer sheet. I was really torn on this. On the one hand, the simpler icons seem more akin to practical markings to be used on an engine of war... but the more complex, detailed versions are more akin to devotional artworks that might appear on religious icons.

Since a Titan blurs these roles, I decided that it made sense to use the simpler stuff for more practical purposes: squadron marking and faction equivalents, which would be consistently placed lower down the Titans, so allies can quickly assess things in the fog of war. More complex, realistic artwork would be reserved for higher up the Titan, where such finery primarily serves decorative and heraldic purposes rather than practical ideas.


+++

+ Adding transfers: practical +

The process of getting transfers on is fairly simple:

_i +Preparation+  Paint your model to a finish you're happy with (e.g. highlighted and shaded).

_ii +Protect+  Apply a varnish – I used Winsor & Newton Professional spray varnish (matt finish) [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]. Gloss is probably better for this stage, as it creates a smooth, glassy finish that means the transfers lie as flat as possible. However, I didn't want to splash out for a second can of varnish, and I want a matt finish eventually.

_iii  +Wetting+  Cut out the transfer (including the backing) and dip into the water pot. Let it get soaked, then place it on your palette while it loosens itself from the backing.

_iv  +Solution+  Use a brush to paint Microscale's Microset solution [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+] over the area you want to apply the transfer.

_v +Placement+   Bring the transfer and backing up to the area, and use a clean damp brush to gently slide the transfer across into the correct position. Try to avoid any bubbles.

_vi +Patience+   Allow to dry thoroughly. The transfer will now be in position, but will look glossy and the edges will often be obvious.

+ Transfer in place after stage vi – note the reflection of the light, and the circular shape of the transparent backing. +

_vii +Repetition+   Apply a second coat of Microset, working outwards from the centre of the transfer, and leave to dry. The solution softens the transfer and helps it adhere to the surface.

_viii +Integration+   Once completely dry, use a clean brush to apply Microscale's Microsol solution [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+] over the transfer. This partially dissolves the transfer, helping it to settle onto the surface and look painted on.

_ix +Sealing+   Once that's completely dry, apply a second coat of W&N spray varnish, and allow to dry to finish.

+++

+ All over bar the shouting +

That brings us to this stage (well, step 8), and as you can see, the transfers now look more settled in. Of note here is the effect that varnish has on the metallics – the matt sheen kills the reflectivity of the metallics. The result's not unpleasant, but it's worth bearing in mind if you've spent ages working on the metals. For these, they've deliberately been left as basecoats so that I can develop them later on.


It's worth noting that transfers and freehand painting aren't mutually exclusive, and nor are you restricted to the designs on the sheet. The example above is a very simple example of this – before the transfer on the left knee (right of picture) was applied, I painted on a yellow circle that would fit within the cog shape. Since part of the transfer is clear, the yellow shows through and looks like an integral part of the design.


Key to my plan is that the designs evoked (or even matched) the original inspiration – another reason why I went for the simpler, more iconic designs from the sheet for these parts.

 


For the larger areas on the Warlords – the big shoulder plates – I've instead gone for the more detailed versions. Still in two minds about the decision, but he who hesitates is lost, and all that. Steel Hammer, above, has this large Legio symbol on his shoulder, and a similar variant on the other side.


Old Three Skulls, being rather larger that the original, has received some additional nods to his name – a trifecta of skulls on the shoulder in the same arrangement as on the original's weapon banner, and three smaller yellow skulls running along the cockpit.

+++

+ Painting nameplates +

But it's not all transfers. I've also been doing some building and painting. First off, I built Fors Clavigera an alternative missile launcher to better evoke the Barrage Missile Launcher of the original.

The old models used the same weapons for carapace and arms (rather than having specific mounts for each), so as you can see below it's quite ungainly. I wanted to ensure it evoked the idea of the original, while having a similar feel to the other modern weapons.


I built it with a bits box dive. At the base is a magnetised Apocalypse Missile Launcher connector, so I can still swap it out if necessary. The mounting is from Battle Bling, and the larger parts are from the new Imperial Guard big artillery piece – one of the super-lascannons. This was trimmed down and carved into a shape to evoke the original. 

The upper armour is from a Reaver Power Fist – I cut the central part away and married them together, while the part with a cable near the front is a Reaver close combat weapon upper arm. Finally, the missile piece itself is a Leagues of Votann (new squats) piece, given to me by TrojanNinja (thanks!).


I sprayed and basecoated it, then popped it in place to see how it looked. You decide – does it look about right?


Elsewhere in the maniple, Praeterita Carnivorus (Carnivore to his friends) has had the armour and lenses of the cockpit painted, ready for oils and trim:


You'll also note here that I opted to add a yellow transfer rather than paint his groin completely yellow (as in the original). Just like the alterations to the carapace stripes, I thought this was a better, less distracting compromise between the original and the retrohammer remake.



And I also spent an enjoyable few minutes painting the chequers on Old Three Skulls' Power Claw:


This involved little more than thinned Scorched Brown paint, a fine-pointed brush, and time. I'm still in two minds on whether to continue the chequers over the 'knuckles' or not. What do you think?

+++

+ Painting nameplates +

I also started putting the base paint down on the nameplates. These are from Obsidian Forge [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+], and will sit on the magnetised terminals that I made for the force, so it's easier for both me and the other players to track which Titan is which.

The first stages I've taken to paint them are:

_i  Apply a brown undercoat – this gives a nice warm undertone.
_ii  Stipple Balthazar gold over the whole surface. Make sure you get a nice thin coat over the whole surface, including in the recesses within the text.
_iii  Work Seraphim Sepia wash into the recesses, leaving large areas clear.

+ End of stage _III +

More to come soon!

Monday, January 20

+ inload: Metalica marches on +

+ Rifling through the databanks +

+ Making progress on the Titan maniple involved digging through some Retrohammer reference material to find some alternate angles on the Titans. Today's inload looks at challenges and opportunities of this approach. +


+++

+ Stripes are very in this season +

The work this weekend revolved largely around the white areas – shading them down and adding depth, then adding the freehand stripes. This is most obvious on Steel Hammer, as the warlord has the largest and most prominent areas of these. I'm very pleased with how these areas look, and I think this level of detail is (at last!) starting to bring the project together. 


In practical terms, the white areas were brought up to a level I was happy with using diluted Dawnstone (a pale grey) to provide the shading. When shading white, I try to remember not to take the shading tone too dark, and to restrict it to a smaller portion of the area than I would for (say) the red. That helps the area to remain nice and bright, which can then be emphasised with nearly pure white edge highlights. It's doubly important on areas that are white and black to keep the white above an overall mid-tone, or everything will blend in together.

+++

Painting stripes

Freehand stripes can seem a bit intimidating – it can be hard to visualise how broad the stripes will need to be; you need to consider how many you want to include, and how they'll fit in the space; and working them on curved or irregular areas adds further complication, as it's easy for the line to go for a wander if you're just going straight in with paint.

Using masking tape is one solution which ensures nice clean straight lines, but I was a bit concerned with how it would interact with the paint I'd used, weakened as it was by the use of flow enhancer.

+ Old Three Skulls flashing a bit of ankle. The red piping works quite nicely here – a fun touch from the original inspiration +

For these reasons, I decided I'd just work freehand. I used a sharp HB pencil to gently sketch in an outline. This let me ensure the width of the stripes would be consistent, that they ran across broken areas cleanly, and also let me preserve white areas I particularly liked.

These initial pencil marks were made very lightly. Once happy, I dabbed them with Blu-tak (a putty rubber would be a better choice, but adhesive putty is fine) to remove excess graphite, which can otherwise muddy the paint. Not really a problem with black, but good practice. It makes the marks less obvious, so if you do go a bit squiffy, the pencil marks don't stand out.

The stripes themselves are simply Contrast Black Legion. I'll come back to highlight them later, applying the opposite rule to the white above – i.e. only highlight to a midtone.

+++

+ Inadvertent launchblessing protocol +

It's traditional to smash a bottle of champagne on a new ship as it's launched, and presumably something similar is still maintained by the ritual-obsessed Adeptus Mechanicus.

Less traditional is sloshing a glass of brandy all over your half-painted maniple as the ironing board leaps out from ambush behind the door, but such was the fate of these Iron Skulls. 


This cued a few minutes of frantic cursing, mopping up and rinsing them under the tap. Thankfully very little damage seems apparent. Aside from some odd purple sediment on Old Three Skull's missile launcher, where the alcohol or subsequent tap water seems to have reactivated the wash, there doesn't seem to be much permanent effect. Praise be to the god of machines that the combination of washes, contrast paints and acrylics proved largely water-resistant.

(You'll be pleased to hear the brandy glass survived, even if the drink itself was wasted!)

+++

+ Yellow +

Back in the 90s, super bright saturated colours and jewel-like impact were all the rage, so it's fairly predictable that the bright red Titans would have some equally vibrant accent colours. While I've opted for ash waste desert rather than verdant Goblin Green bases (great for complementing red, but a retro step too far for my tastes), I did want to include some of the more notable elements, like Old Three Skulls' bright yellow-and-black chequered fist:

This was achieved with a yellow ochre (Balor Brown, I think) base – the strong coverage gives a clean base, and it's easy then to layer on the more transparent bright yellow (Yriel yellow, in this instance) to get a good result. Once dry, a glaze of burnt sienna (Mournfang brown) was added to create some shading.

I assembled the power claw without the built-in vulcan mega-bolter for a couple of reasons: it niggles me that it doesn't have an in-game effect, but more importantly, leaving it off gives you larger armour panels to paint, which is going to be critical if the chequerboard effect isn't just going to look confused. 


Even as-is, I'm a little apprehensive that the chequerboard effect isn't going to look great on such a visually confusing area. Neverthless, in for a penny, in for a pound. Amongst the best bits of taking inspiration from older models is the enjoyable challenge of translating details like this onto modern figures, often much more complex.


+++

+ Return to White Dwarf +

When pursuing Retrohammer projects, it's good to keep your reference to hand, and check it every once in a while. I've spotted various bits and bobs on these Titans that I've interpreted incorrectly, altered inadvertently, or simply miscoloured.


The other lesson is that you don't have to match things exactly. Projects like this are meant to be fun, after all, and you should feel entirely free to balance making things 'authentic' with making it look cool to you. I'll count it as a win if the overall concept is clear and the homage recognisable, so I won't lose sleep over a particular panel being subtly different. 

For example, the heads of the original Titans are not entirely clear to me, from the photographs. I can't decide whether they're meant to be grey, white, silver or a variety across the Titans. 

Here I've leaned into the lack of clarity and decided that I can mix and match. I like the idea of the Iron Skulls having metallic heads, but then I'm not so keen on silver metallic trim on silver metallic plates – which is what I suspect was the thinking of the studio painters, too. Perhaps the heads are white as that's the heraldic way of portraying silver?

+++


Claviger's carapace is an example of making assumptions – I was convinced it was black and white, and even sprayed it white with that in mind, as you can see in this inload [+noosphericinloadlink embedded+]. After checking, I realised it was red; the black and white a figment of my imagination, or an illusion caused by the shoulder pads. Fortunately I had a spare carapace, which I sprayed red.

+++

+ White Dwarf 184 battle report: Abomination! + 

If you do want to match things, then having lots of reference is handy. Anyone who's attempted to copy a colour scheme from a single picture will quickly realise the shortcomings of only having one angle visible. Fortunately, these Titans were used in battle reports over the years, so I dug into White Dwarf 184 to see if I could clear up a few  elements that were unclear to me.


This shot of Claviger gives a clearer view of the shoulder armour, and reveals that they're chevrons rather than just stripes.



Carnivore here can be seen to have a single chevron on his white pauldron, too. 


The carapace of Carnivore is an example of a change I've instated. Rather than a halved carapace with yellow and black striping, I've opted for a band of striping, which combines both white and yellow: a nod to the original model while updating it somewhat to the new scheme, which barely features yellow.


Shots like this are invaluable for generating ideas – I had no idea that the missile launcher had an Opus Machina on the side, for example. It's just not visible in any of the other shots.


Keen-eyed inloaders will spot that I've updated the right arm weapon from the standard gatling blaster to this Battle Bling variant, which I felt was closer to the vulcan mega-bolter of the original.

+++

To bring this rambling inload to a swift conclusion, things are motoring along. I'm going to aim to have the Titans themselves varnished and ready for oil washes by the end of this weekend – after that it'll be getting a bit dicey that they'll be dry for the event!
+++