+ inload: Tutorial – Converting Mark X into Mark VI armour +

+ Corvus armour tutorial +

+ Converting a Mark VI marine +

+ This tutorial will allow you to convert an Intercessor marine into something like the figure above; a marine in Mark VI Corvus-pattern armour – the iconic beakie marine of Rogue Trader. +

+ Much of the conversion is kitbashing – simply selecting parts you find appropriate – though it does also involve a little simple sculpting. If you're nervous at sculpting, then this is a good starting point. +

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+ Theoretical +

+ For any aspiring rivet-counters, the conversion below provides a list of parts that are the closest to the modern iteration of Mark VI. Depending on your particular preferences and budget, you might wish to choose different bits – that's all fine: the point of conversion is making your models more personal, after all. Depending on the Chapter you're building and period it's set in, it's entirely likely a marine will be wearing a hotch-potch mix of armour plates rather than a complete suit. Nevertheless, this guide walks you though a full suit of Mark VI – I'll leave you to choose the details and finishing touches to fit your personal taste (or what your Chapter can muster!). +

+ If you're trying to make an exact replica of Corvus armour, then the best source of bits is Forge World's Legion MkVI set [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+], but this is pricy. The only key purchase for the conversion is the Mark VI head, which you find in lots of marine boxes. My advice is to find a balance between accuracy and cost that works for you. +

+ If you're doing a one-off, then the space marine Assault Squad [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+] is a good starting point for bits: it contains a Mark VI backpack, shoulder pads and helm. Best of all, these are all optional extras for the kit, so you can still build a complete assault squad without them. If you're doing a batch, I'd recommend the FW set. +

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+ What do I need? +

+ For this tutorial you will need: 

• A Primaris space marine. My recommended parts are:
• Body and legs: Intercessor or Assault Intercessor body with separate greaves, as these make it much easier to trim off the details.
• Head: Mark VI helms – Forge World do a set of Raven Guard upgrades [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+] with some nice variations and details. 
• Weapons: Umbra-pattern boltguns [+noosphericexloadlink embedded+]. These are the closest to the RTB01 boltgun.
• Arms: MK X Phobos armour lacks the additional forearm plate on Intercessors, so is closer to the classic marine aesthetic. You can get these arms in the Reiver or Infiltrator/Incursor box; both will give you lots of cool potential poses.
• Backpack: The Forge World Mk VI set is the source for a backpack essentially identical to the classic RTB01, but there are a few available elsewhere (such as the assault squad linked above) with the more angular central part and raised tubing on the top centre.
• Shoulder pads: You can trim away the rim from any pad fairly simply, but a paired set of rimless pads, one with studs, turn up in most marine boxes, including the Intercessors. 
• Polystyrene cement
• Craft knife and cutting mat
• Modelling clippers
• Modelling putty such as Greenstuff, ProCreate or a 50:50 mix of Greenstuff and Milliput.
• Revitalising cup of recaff or, for those with a discerning palate Endworlds Ti infusion. Owing to sharp blades and precision, synthale is not sanctioned.

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+ Practical +

+ Part I: Cutting and shaping +

_i Use the modelling clippers to remove the bulk of the crest around the knee, then use the knife to trim it flush as shown.

_ii Working particularly carefully, use the knife to trim the kneepad flat. Start from the centre and use the line of the shin to guide you.

_iii Alter the angle to match the line of the shin as you work round the knee, until it is flat and level with the shin as shown.

_iv Gently scrape away the surface by repeatedly and lightly dragging the blade backwards over the surface, until the join between knee and shin is lost. Alternatively, you can fill the gap with modelling putty.

_v Repeat on the other shinplate, then glue them in place on the respective legs.

_vi Make a cut down the ankle stabiliser as shown, in line with the shin plate, then cut in from the side to remove half of the stabiliser. I suggest that you start on the inside. It's more easily hidden, so a good place to practise; and it's also smaller, which makes the cuts easier.

_vii Cut across the ankle stabiliser at the bottom. Depending on the pose of the marine, you may want to do this in two stages: the first in line with the bottom of the shin plate; the second in line with the bottom of the rear leg armour.

_viii Turn the leg over and repeat the process on the outer ankle stabiliser. Make the cut in line with the back of the shinplate as shown. Because the plate flexes outwards, you don't need to cut all the way down to the foot, but rather to where the outside edge of the shinplate would be. The next step clarifies this.

_ix This shows the depth you need to achieve with the cut. As you make the cut across the bottom of the shin, you'll end up with an odd excess below the lower leg. Don't worry; that'll be dealt with later.

_x Cut upwards into the ankle stabilise ball from below, in line with the outer foot covering – that is, the part of the armour between the boot itself and the lower leg armour.

_xi Use your knife to trim the area flat and reshape the outer foot covering as shown. Trim off the last quadrant of the ankle stabiliser so that it lies flush with the shin plate. Once you repeat this on the other leg, the legs are complete.

_xi Cut away the excess collar, leaving a little still in place to act as a visual guide later. I find the best way to do this is to line the blade up on both rear edges of the collar and then trim forwards from both sides simultaneously. This helps to ensure a clean cut at a consistent angle.

_xii Working from the outside in, start to trim back the eagle. Use the stub of the collar to help guide your blade.

_xiii Continue trimming down the chestplate, working layer by layer until it's flush with the surface. 

_xiv Using the curve of the underlying armour as a guide, start to trim away the pectoral plate on one side until it is flush. Rather than removing the whole thing, we're hiding the sharp edges. The central and upper parts remain in place.

_xiv Repeat on the other side, aiming to get a symmetrical appearance.

_xv I like to assemble the legs and torso as it gives me something to hold onto when sculpting. If you want maximum flexibility (for example, if the model has a particularly awkward pose), use a spot of superglue to temporarily attach the legs, allowing you to be able to break them off later if necessary.

At this point, If you don't want to sculpt, you can stop here and assemble the rest of the marine for an effective finish. However, if you do want to take it a bit further, then read onto part 2: [+noosphericinloadlink PENDING+]

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